Skip to main content

Figuring Out an Old Jackson Superswitch

custom jackson guitar

Just recently, I was working on a very cool 1980's Jackson (above). The pickups had been upgraded to Seymour Duncans, and I got to rewire it. The guitar had already been to two different places, but neither of them were able to figure out how to get the wiring to work because the 5-way superswitch (below) is different from others.

jackson superswitch

(Note that the picture above is not the original wiring. It's one of the failed attempts.) Apparently, this switch was unique to 80's era Jackson guitars. They called it the JE-0005 5-Way Switch, and it was a big selling point that they advertised in their catalogs.

Looking through a Jackson catalog from 1987 on their online archives, I found a picture of a guitar with a similar paint job and a section telling about the switch.

jackson custom guitars

Jackson JE 0005


Neither of the places that worked on this particular guitar were able to find information on how to wire it. One of them even called Jackson, but was told that they no longer have the schematic for it. So I went through it with a multimeter and mapped out what connected to what in each position.

It actually turned out to be pretty straightforward. The switch has four poles. On the diagram below, I've circled the different poles in red. Each pole is completely independent from the others, and has one output with five inputs. The output lug connects to a different input in each switch position.

je 0005 poles

As you can see here, I've labeled all the lugs of the switch and shown which ones are connected in each switch position. The lug labeled "O" is the output, and the other lugs are labeled 1-5 according to which position they connect to "O" in. For example: lug 1 connects to "O" in position 1, lug 2 connects to "O" in position 2, and so on, and so on.

je 0005 diagram

I labeled the lugs on my diagram so that they match the lugs of a standard 5-way superswitch with the same label as in StewMac's article here: http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online_Resources/Learn_About_Guitar_Pickups_and_Electronics_and_Wiring/Super_SwitchI1.html

With this, you should be able to convert existing guitar wiring diagrams that use a superswitch so that they'll work with a JE-0005 switch.


Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

How to Set Up a Guitar Basics: Pt 2 - String Height

So after you've adjusted your guitar's truss rod you can now set the action, or height of the strings. This is where you really get to customize the feel of your guitar. If you haven't already adjusted your truss rod, or checked to see if it needed adjusted, check out part one of this series here:  How to Set Up a Guitar Basics: Pt 1 - Truss Rod Adjustment The string height (distance between the strings and the frets) is adjusted at the bridge. On Fender style guitars, this is set by individually adjusting the height of each bridge saddle via the little set screws in it. Use an allen key to turn the screws, and try to keep the saddle level as you raise or lower it. On a Gibson style guitar, the string height is set by changing the height of the two mounting posts, which is done by either turning the posts with a screwdriver or turning the thumbwheels on the posts, depending on the type of bridge. Now you could just go and randomly start raising and l...

Turning a Tone Pot into a No-Load or Blend Pot

A no-load pot has several cool uses in guitar wiring. For one, it can replace a standard tone pot. Typical tone controls still have an effect, even when turned all the way up, but a no-load pot will essentially take the tone control out of the circuit, when turned up to 10. You can also use one as a blend pot to blend pickups into each other. You can buy a no-load pot, or you can make one out of a regular pot. Here's how I turned a standard CTS pot into a no-load pot to use as a blender. Tools you need: Tiny flathead screwdriver, or something similar Needle-nose pliers Xacto knife Steps: Start taking apart the pot by using the screwdriver to pry up the four tabs circled in red in the picture below. Then use the needle-nose pliers to bend them back. Don't bend them too far, or they might break - just bend them enough so that they're about straight. It should look something like this: Next, take the threaded shaft off. Then take off...